Georgia travel: practical planning guide

Georgia has one of the most generous visa policies in the world. Citizens of around 95 countries — including the EU, UK, US, Canada, Australia, Japan, Israel, and most CIS states — can enter visa-free and stay for up to one year. You simply arrive at the airport or land border with a passport valid for the duration of your stay.

Nationals of other countries can apply for an e-Visa online through the official Georgian government portal in 5–7 business days. Single-entry e-Visas cost around 20–40 USD; multi-entry up to 50 USD. Carry the printed approval letter at the border.

The land borders with Armenia (at Sadakhlo and Ninotsminda), Azerbaijan (Red Bridge and Lagodekhi) and Turkey (Sarpi and Vale) are all open and straightforward for citizens of most countries. The border with Russia at Stepantsminda/Verkhny Lars is open but subject to long queues and political risk — check the latest situation before relying on it.

The local currency is the Georgian lari (GEL). As a rough guide, 1 USD ≈ 2.7 GEL and 1 EUR ≈ 2.9 GEL, though rates fluctuate. ATMs are everywhere in Tbilisi, Batumi, Kutaisi and tourist hubs; Bank of Georgia, TBC and Liberty Bank machines all accept Visa and Mastercard with reasonable fees.

Typical daily budgets in 2026:

• Budget (25–40 USD/day): guesthouse dorm or basic private room, marshrutka transport, eating at canteens and bakeries, one paid attraction.
• Mid-range (40–80 USD/day): comfortable guesthouse or 3★ hotel, occasional taxis and a day trip, sit-down restaurant meals, a winery tour.
• Luxury (120+ USD/day): boutique hotel or wine estate, private driver, fine dining, premium experiences (helicopter to Kazbegi, private chef supra).

Cards are accepted at most restaurants, hotels and shops in cities, but you absolutely need cash for marshrutkas, village guesthouses, bazaars, and the mountains. Tipping in restaurants is 10% if a service charge is not already included.

Marshrutkas (shared minibuses) are the workhorse of Georgian transport. They cover almost every town from Tbilisi for 5–25 GEL per ride. Main stations in Tbilisi are Didube (north and west — Kazbegi, Kutaisi, Mestia, Batumi), Ortachala (south — Armenia and Azerbaijan), and Samgori (east — Kakheti).

Trains run by Georgian Railway connect Tbilisi with Batumi (5 hours, 25–35 GEL), Kutaisi, Zugdidi (gateway to Svaneti), Borjomi and Yerevan. The double-decker Stadler trains to Batumi are comfortable and reliable.

Renting a car is the best option for the mountains and Kakheti. International chains (Avis, Sixt) and local agencies operate from Tbilisi airport. Expect 35–80 USD/day for a small SUV. Note: the road to Svaneti is paved but mountainous; the road to Tusheti is one of the most dangerous in the world and requires a 4×4 with an experienced local driver.

Private drivers for day trips cost 100–200 USD/day depending on distance. This is the standard way to do Kazbegi or Kakheti in a day if you do not want to drive.

Taxis in Tbilisi are cheap — use Bolt or Yandex Go (5–10 GEL for most rides). Hailed taxis without apps tend to overcharge tourists.

Three operators — Magti, Geocell and Beeline — sell prepaid tourist SIMs at Tbilisi and Kutaisi airports and at any high-street shop. Bring your passport. A 30-day package with 20–30 GB of 4G data costs around 20–35 GEL (7–13 USD). Coverage is excellent in Tbilisi, along the Black Sea coast, and on the main highway to Kazbegi; expect patchy 4G in Svaneti and Tusheti.

eSIMs through Airalo or Holafly are an easy alternative if your phone supports them — install before you fly, no airport queues. Free Wi-Fi is widely available in cafes, hotels and even on marshrutkas in cities.

Georgia is one of the safest countries in the region for travellers. Violent crime against tourists is very rare, locals are famously hospitable, and women travelling solo report feeling safe in Tbilisi, Batumi and most towns. Petty theft can happen in crowded markets — the usual precautions apply.

Two regions are off-limits from the rest of Georgia: Abkhazia (north-west) and South Ossetia (north). The de facto borders are closed and you cannot legally enter them from Georgian territory.

Tap water is safe to drink in Tbilisi and most cities. Pharmacies (Aversi, PSP, GPC) are everywhere and stock European brands. Emergency number is 112 — operators speak English. Travel insurance is recommended for the mountains, where evacuation can be expensive.

Each season changes the country dramatically.

• May–June and September: the sweet spot. Warm days, cool nights, green mountains, fewer crowds than peak summer, and excellent hiking weather in Svaneti and Kazbegi.
• July–August: hot in the lowlands (30–35 °C in Tbilisi), but high-altitude trails are at their best. Beach season on the Black Sea coast at Batumi.
• September–October: wine harvest in Kakheti — the rtveli season, with grape-picking, supra dinners, and the country at its most festive.
• November–March: ski season at Gudauri and Bakuriani. Tbilisi is quiet and cheap; snowy weekends in Kazbegi if the Cross Pass is open.
• April: unpredictable shoulder season; flowers in the lowlands, snow still on the high passes.

For most first-time visitors, late May or mid-September is the best week of the year.