The four ways to do it
| Option | Cost | Time each way | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marshrutka | 15–20 GEL | 3 h | Solo travellers on a budget |
| Shared taxi | 25–30 GEL/seat | 2.5 h | Faster than marshrutka, still cheap |
| Private driver | 100–180 USD/car | 2.5–3 h | Couples or small groups, flexibility |
| Self-drive | ~50 USD/day + fuel | 2.5 h | Confident drivers, multiple stops |
All four start the same way: Tbilisi → Mtskheta → Zhinvali Reservoir → Ananuri Fortress → Pasanauri → Friendship Monument → Jvari Pass (Krestovy) → Kobi → Stepantsminda.
What to stop for
On a marshrutka or shared taxi you will not stop. On a private day tour or self-drive, the four key stops are:
- Jinvali Reservoir viewpoint — turquoise water, 5 minutes.
- Ananuri Fortress — 17th-century castle on the reservoir, 30 minutes to walk around.
- Friendship Monument — Soviet-era mosaic with one of the best panoramas in the country, 15 minutes.
- Jvari Pass (Krestovy) — the 2,379 m highway crest, often snowy. Quick photo stop.
Lunch is usually in Pasanauri (famous for khinkali) or near the Friendship Monument.
Booking and practical tips
- Marshrutka tickets are not bookable in advance — turn up at Didube and ask "Kazbegi?". They leave when full, roughly every 30 minutes.
- Private drivers can be hired through your guesthouse, on GoTrip.ge, or by asking at the airport for around the same price.
- Winter (Dec–Mar): always check the Cross Pass status before booking. The army periodically closes it for snow clearance.
- Cash: bring small notes — most stops only take cash, and ATMs in Stepantsminda are unreliable.
- Altitude: Stepantsminda is 1,740 m and Gergeti is 2,170 m. Drink water and skip alcohol at lunch if you plan to hike up afterwards.
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